NEWS




Baijiu - From Niche to Mainstream

Baijiu - From Niche to Mainstream

In early June, Choon Hoy Parlor re-opened in Arcade @ The Capitol Kempinski with a bar programme serving over 30 labels (and growing!). This is the largest collection of baijiu in Asia outside of China. But in fact, in Singapore, baijiu has been quietly available for retail and in bars for a long time now. 

Today, some of Singapore’s most exciting restaurants like Birds Of A Feather, Shisen Hanten by Chen Kentaro, and The Black Pearl serve baijiu – either neat, or as a base in cocktails.

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Hero Image Credit: Baijiu bar in Choon Hoy Parlor; above image: Shisen Hanten by Chen Kentaro

What Is Baijiu? 

Once described as “the planet’s most popular spirit”, baijiu is a fiery clear spirit, characterised by rich and complex aromas and flavours. 

Baijiu is: 

  • made from starchy grains like sorghum, barley and wheat, 

  • brewed with an external source of enzymes named qu [曲], and  

  • distilled, with an alcohol content typically ranging from 40% to 60%.

It holds a special place in Chinese history and culture; there is a saying that translates as “you can’t have a feast without alcohol.” Legend says that the iconic poet Li Bai loved shaojiu (the first recognisable precedent to baijiu) so much that he pawned a priceless fur coat for one bottle. 

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Baijiu bar in Choon Hoy Parlor

There are four major subcategories: 

  • Strong Aroma 浓香, famous for its highly potent taste and extremely distinct scent, 

  • Sauce Aroma 酱香, named for the deep savoury flavours which most drinkers associate with soy sauce and famous for the iconic Moutai, 

  • Light Aroma 清香, milder, floral and fruity – more delicate on the nose and palate, and 

  • Rice Aroma 米香, made principally from rice, yielding a floral palate and milder taste.  

Who is drinking it? Traditionally, baijiu is considered a social drink and always drunk at functions, gatherings, celebrations and business transactions. Teh Yong Sheng, the Operations Manager of nearly 10-year-old Birds Of A Feather, affirms that several of his guests who order baijiu are indeed Chinese diners playing host to non-Chinese guests. They are keen to let their guests try China’s most emblematic alcohol.

However, there are also many local diners who harbour curiosity about the spirit and are open to trying it for themselves, regardless of cost. Chef Dylan Ong, Chef-Owner of Choon Hoy Parlor, agrees that “more and more Singaporeans are learning how to appreciate baijiu”, and further observes that “bars in Singapore are starting to incorporate baijiu into their offerings.”

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L-R: Birds Of A Feather and its Tian Mi Mi cocktail

Cocktails remain the most popular medium as an entry to learning about the liquor. 

  • Birds Of A Feather offer baijiu cocktails which imbibers can customise with their choice of Wu Liang Ye or Moutai. The Tian Mi Mi cocktail is even accompanied with baijiu ice cream! 

  • In Choon Hoy Parlor, Chef Dylan recommends beginners try their

  • Sorghum Sour, a baijiu spin on the whisky sour using Er Guo Tou 12 (二锅头12); and 
  • Pandan Coconut Highball, a baijiu spin on the highball using YangHe Haizhilan (海之蓝).
  • Other places that list baijiu cocktails on their list include Club Street Laundry (Hup San Social Club) and Jiu Zhuang.  

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L-R: Sorghum Sour, and Pandan Coconut Highball from Choon Hoy Parlor

Cocktails are easy entry tickets to the complex world of baijiu – and, possibly, new drinking habits.